"GETTING JOYSTICKS TO
WORK WITH MICROSOFT WINDOWS".
By: [TiC]EVIL.
31 May, 2004
(also see other gaming tips at
www.ticclan.com)
THE BEST JOYSTICK
TUTORIAL ON THE INTERNET!!
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
1. Tips on buying joysticks
(features/manufactures).
2. Installing joysticks.
3. Testing and
calibration joysticks.
4. What is a driver.
5. What is a 3D joystick.
6. Joystick keys (JOY1-AUX32).
7. Connectors - types - which is
better.
8. Troubleshooting
Joysticks.
9A. Troubleshooting
- joystick never worked.
9B. Troubleshooting
- joystick used to worked.
9C.
Troubleshooting - erratic joysticks - dirty pots.
9D. Troubleshooting -
broke or sticky buttons.
9E. Troubleshooting - always moving - deadzones -"drift" - Mechanical
Centering Test.
9F. Troubleshooting -
Microsoft DirectX.
9G.
Troubleshooting - works in Windows tests, but not in game.
10. Joystick LINKs
(Manufacturers - Venders - Info).
TIPS ON BUYING A JOYSTICK FOR
A PC (personal computer):
If you are interested in buying a joystick for your
computer. I would recommend figuring out what is THE most
important feature to you. I like a joystick to WORK, to work
with the all hardware and all software I have now, and
will have in the future, I like it to have a lot of easy to
press buttons, a stick "formed shaped" close to my hand, a
hand rest, a USB connector, and no lag (doesn't cause
hesitation in the game).
These are some of the better features a joysticks could
offer:
1. 4-way hat switch (a multi-switch button on top of the
stick).
2. 8-way hat switch (like a 4-way hat switch, except it has
a total of 8 switches).
(Some games only recognize 4 of the 8 switches though).
3. Buttons that are conveniently "right there" at your
finger tips, but don't get accidentally pushed.
4. A LOT of handy buttons on the stick.
5. A stick that is formed to fit your hand.
6. A "hand rest" on the stick, to rest the bottom of hand on
the your stick to steady it.
7. Software drivers that work today.
(Be careful of buying "clearance Joysticks" that ONLY work
with OLDER versions of Windows.)
8. Updates for the software drivers so the joystick also
will work in the future too.
9. Non-laggy drivers, so that the game plays smoothly when
you use the joystick.
10. A good wide "non-slip" base, so the joystick does slide
around when you use it.
11. Cordless (wireless) (some joysticks are cordless now).
12. USB connecter vs. a Gameport connecter.
(What type of connector does your computer have (see the
Connectors Section below).
13. Force Feedback (its shakes the stick and is fun on some
games).
14. A "throttle" or "Rudder" lever to control certain
functions in some flight games
(some people have a completely separate controls "throttle
sticks" and rudder foot pedals" for these.
15. 2D vs. 3D joysticks if you like (need) the "twist" axis
features of the 3D stick.
16. If you are playing "Flight Simulators" there are
"Joystick Throttle Systems" out now.
(These systems can have a joystick, throttle control, and
may also have pedals, but are usually pricey).
17. Some joysticks offer "built-in joystick scripting"
commands, but most won't work with most games.
18. Digital vs. Analog joysticks. Some analog joysticks
loose calibration and "drift".
BEFORE you buy a joystick, I would highly suggest visiting
several joystick
manufacturers'
websites, look over and read up about each joystick you are
considering buying. See if they offer a "Support" or
"Troubleshooting" or "FAQ" section at their website to help
you when you have troubles. See if they have a "Downloads"
section to download: drivers, updates to drivers, and
manuals. See if the joystick Manufacturers offers "Updates"
for their older models of joysticks. If they don't support
their older models, they won't support the new one you buy
from them and when it comes time for an update to a new
version of Microsoft DirectX, you will be stuck having to
buy a new joystick that is compatible with the newer version
of DirectX. (See the section below about "DirectX"). If you
have several "Computer Stores" (like CompUSA,
etc) or "Consumer Electronic Stores" (like BEST-Buy, Wal-mart,
etc), go to several stores and actually try out the various
joysticks, see our joystick
Venders list. While you can't use the joystick in a game
at the store usually (some stores do setup demos btw), you
can compare them by putting your hand on the stick and
checking out the buttons' locations and feel of the
switches. Check to see if you like the stick's hand rest and
the feel of the stick's movement.
I WARN YOU about buying "cool looking" joystick that looks
cool, but might be the biggest hunk of junk you ever buy.
Get a joystick that is comfortable TO YOU that works. A
"flashy joystick" that doesn't work, will quickly end up in
the trash can.
I have used several brands of joysticks over the years,
Thrustmasters, Logitech, Microsoft, Gravis, etc. Now the
joystick I use is a
Microsoft Sidewinder Precision Pro2 USB digital joystick ,
because it works. However, just because it is the best
joystick for me, doesn't mean it is the best joystick for
you and the games you play. ;-) Note: Microsoft
has abruptly stopped supporting their older joysticks as of
July, 05 ;-( .
BTW, there is NO PERFECT JOYSTICK, but you will be happier
with the joystick you buy if you do a little shopping and
comparing, you might shoot a lot more enemy and die less
too. ;-)
What is "HOTAS", HOTAS is the abbreviation for "Hands On
Throttle And Stick" and is term used in flight simulators
(and real jet fighter aircraft) to describe their controls.
It allows you to have all the controls at your finger tips
on the stick and throttle.
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INSTALLING
JOYSTICKS IN Windows:
First up, when I use the word "joystick" I mean a joystick
that was designed to be used with a PC (personal computer)
running Microsoft Windows 98, ME, 2000, XP operating
systems, you can not un-bolt a joystick from a crane and
expect it to work jumper-cabled to your computer ;-). While
we have not tested all these tips with PC trackballs,
gamepads, rudders, throttles, gravity sticks, steering
wheels, or foot pedals, the general ideas might be useful to
you.
To "properly install a joystick" on a PC computer you will
need to:
1. Physically installed the joystick on the proper connector
on your computer.
2. Install all needed software "drivers" for the joystick.
3. Install any "application software" for the joystick (if
needed).
4. Update all the joystick's software.
5. Calibrate the joystick (if needed) (see below).
6. FULLY TEST that the joystick works OK (outside the game)
by testing it in Windows, "Control Panel", "Game
Controller", "Properties" test.
NOTE:
All screenshot pictures were taken on a WinXP computer that
is using the old "Classic Windows" style desktop theme
(that's why they look like Windows 95). I use the "Windows
Classic" Desktop Theme because it shows more details and is
logically laid out, unlike WinXP's default layouts. I
previously used Windows 98 and this tutorial can also be
used as a "loose guide" to help you in Win98 and other plug
and play Windows Operating Systems too.
You should have gotten a CD with your joystick that should
have the driver software on it (the CD may also have
application software that you may or may not need on it
too). If you don't know how to install your joystick, read
the instruction manual that came with it. The sequence for
connecting USB hardware and installing the software is
usually backwards from the way old gameport joysticks used
to be installed, read your instructions. There should be a
printed paper pamphlet for your joystick or a manual in
electronic form as a file on the floppy disk or CD that came
with your joystick. If you lost your CD or manual, go up to
your
joystick
manufacturers web site and do a "Search" on the "model
number" of your joystick in the "Products" section or try
looking in their website's "Support" or "Downloads" sections
(or named something similar). If your joystick is really
old, you might be lucky and they might have a "Discontinued
Products" section to their website. The joystick's model
number is usually on a sticker on the bottom side of of the
joystick. To "update" your joystick's driver or application
software you will have to go up to your joystick's
manufacture's web site and look for newer updates in the
"Support" or "Downloads" section of their website. Sometimes
manuals and drivers vary depending on serial numbers.
Sometimes the drivers differ depending on the Operating
system Windows XP vs. Windows 98, etc. Sometimes, computer
hardware just will not work at all without the latest
software updates, sometimes it fixes minor bugs, and
sometimes it does not matter, because the update "fixes"
something that could be installed on a computer, but you
don't have it installed on yours. Getting updates is usually
a very good idea.
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TESTING
AND/OR CALIBRATING YOUR JOYSTICK IN WINDOWS:
To test the joystick is properly installed and works in
Windows XP, click the Window's menu "Start" button,
"Settings", "Control" (Control Panel), "Game Controller",
then click on "Properties" on that menu. If the joystick has
a "Calibration" procedure there, do it first, then do any
"function tests" available there. Some newer joysticks are
auto-calibrating and just have function tests. Some
joysticks don't even have a function test, it varies
depending on the joystick's software.
NOTE:
You can also open Window's "Game Controller" menu by typing
this at a DOS Command Prompt:
control joy.cpl
(Just type the red part at a DOS prompt, then hit
your ENTER key.)
"Windows XP's "Game Controller" Menu:
(The borders of the screenshot look different from what XP
normally looks like, because I am using the "Classic
Windows" Desktop Theme).
(Click the picture to see a large detailed version of it.)
The things a "function test" tests varies from joystick to
joystick. The function tests usually have a way to test that
all the joystick's buttons work, that the stick's and
rudder's movement works ok, and that the stick "re-centers"
to about the same place each time, these types of test are
usually called a function test.
The joystick might only have a "calibration test" button,
which includes the function test after you "calibrate" the
joystick first. To calibrate a joystick, click the link on
the "Game Controller" menu for the "Calibration" procedure
(usually in the "Properties" menu there). Follow the
instructions there to do the calibration tests for the stick
and/or rudder and/or hat switch as required (the tests will
vary depending on the joystick's manufacturer's software).
The calibration test will usually have a way to test that
all the joystick's buttons work ok and that the stick's
movement "re-centers" and works ok. If it has an option to
SAVE the calibration after you do it, make sure you save it.
If you mess up the calibration, just redo the calibration
from the beginning. Old analog game port joysticks
absolutely needed "calibration" done to them FIRST in the
Window's "Game Controller"/"Properties" menu before you
could use them in games, or you would have joystick movement
and centering settings problems. If the joystick you have
has had it's temperature changed a lot since it was last
calibrated (like you moved it inside a warm house from using
it in a cold garage during Winter time or vise a versa) it
probably needs re-calibration. If it has been over a year
since you last calibrated your joystick and it is acting
funny, re-calibrate it to see if that fixes it. Doing the
joystick calibration procedure usually takes less than 5
minutes. If you have to do the calibration every week or so,
something is wrong, see the troubleshooting procedure below.
I once had an analog joystick that would start to "drift" in
the game after it had been on for over about 30 minutes of
playing, it was very annoying.
WinXP
"Calibration and Function Tests" menus for a Microsoft
Sidewinder Precision Pro2 Joystick:
(Click the pictures to see a large
detailed versions of them.)
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WHAT"S A
"DRIVER":
"Drivers" are software that allows Microsoft Windows to
recognize and talk to installed hardware like joysticks,
printers, video cards, sound cards, etc, etc. Think of
"drivers" as "interpreter" between your hardware and the
various versions of Microsoft Windows Operating Systems
(OS). "Application Software" are programs that add functions
and features to your computer. Examples of application
software are: picture editing software (PaintShop), game
software (Half-life), instant messenger programs (ICQ), etc,
etc.
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2D vs 3D
JOYSTICKS:
There are "2D" joysticks and there are "3D" joysticks. "2D"
joysticks have 2 axes (front-back, left-right) movement of
the stick. "3D" joysticks have 3 axes of movement
(front-back, strafe-left-right, "stick-twist"-left-right)
and can be used as 3D or 2D joysticks. On a 3D joystick, you
can actually "twist" the stick as well as move it
forward-backwards and left-right. With a "3D" joystick
you can have the front-back movement of the stick move you
front-back in the game, you can have your left-right stick
movement move you ("strafe") left-right in the game, and
assign the "twist" (of a 3D stick) to "look" left-right in
the game. -IF- you wanted, you could even assign the axes of
joystick movement to a different directions than normal, but
I don't know why you would want to. ;-) You can usually also
disable the twist axis in games too if you like. I personally disable
the extra "twist" feature in 3D shooter games like Half-life
(that I also use a mouse in), I suppose it would be ok for
flight simulator games or if you just like it.
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HOW JOYSTICK KEYS
ARE IDENTIFIED:
The keys on most joysticks are usually named either "JOY" or
"AUX" followed by a number in a "config.cfg" file. The
numbering of joystick keys' names usually runs like this
JOY1, JOY2, JOY3, JOY4, AUX5, AUX6, AUX7, AUX8,
AUX9,,,thru,,AUX32. Notice that "JOY" and "AUX" are capital
letters by default and I always use capital letters for
them. If you only have 5 keys on your joystick, USUALLY (but
not always) they are numbered like this: JOY1, JOY2, JOY3,
JOY4, AUX5. Usually a joystick's 4-way hat switch is
numbered from the top position of the hat switch's button
going clockwise: AUX29, AUX30, AUX31, AUX32. Usually the
trigger (fire) button on a joystick is named "JOY1". Usually
the left click button on your mouse is named "MOUSE1" and
the right-click button is named "MOUSE2".
(Click the picture to see a large detailed version of it.)
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PC CONNECTOR
TERMINOLOGY:
To start off here is some general "connector terminology".
"Plugs" are a type of connector usually on the end of a
cord. -Usually- plugs are "males". "Males" are usually
connectors with pin(s) sticking out, well, like a male ;-).
While a "female" connector usually has a hole for the
protruding male pin(s) to be stuck into. "Jacks" (also
called receptacles) are usually "female" and fixed on to
something stationary. Why they named the female connector
with a guy's name ("Jack"), I will never know 8-).
TYPICAL PC CONNECTORS found on the back of a modern PC
computer:
(Your computer's rear connectors -PROBABLY- looks something
like this)
(Click the picture to see a large detailed version of it.)
1. A "Gameport" connector for joysticks will have a 15 pin
"DIN" style of connector (a rectangular like shape). The "Gameport"
has 15 pins in 2 rows of 8 and 7 pins. The gameport usually
plugs into the gameport that is either on the back of your
PC's sound card or on the back of your motherboard or on an
expansion port connector that plugs into your motherboard.
Some new computer don't come with "gameports" anymore, they
come with a lot of USB jacks instead. Gameports are also
sometimes used on sound cards as a "midi input port". Midi
ports are used to connect musical instruments with midi
ports to your computer. See your sound card's, or
motherboard's, or computer's manual for more info.
(Click the picture to see a large detailed version of it.)
2. A "VGA" monitor connector (a rectangular like shape) also
usually has 15 pins, but in 3 rows of 5 pins per row. These
connectors are used to connect VGA CRT monitors to your
computer.
3. The new style LCD monitor connector (a rectangular like
shape) usually have 28 pins (a weird 2 rows of 2, plus 3
rows of
8 pins.) You may or may not also have one of these on your
computer.
4. A "Parallel" port connector (a rectangular like shape)
usually have 25 pins ("DIN" style connector) in 2 rows of 13 and 12 pins. Parallel
ports are also sometimes called "Printer" ports, because a
lot of printers used to use the parallel port, although
there were also serial printers and today there are USB
printers too.
5. "Serial" port connectors (rectangular like shaped)
usually have 9 pins ("DIN" style connector) in 2 rows of 5 and 4 pins. Usually you
have none or 1 or 2 serial ports.
6. "PS2" (small round) jack for your mouse and another
similar but slightly different jack for your keyboard. The
PS2 mouse and keyboard jacks have a differently shaped
center "key" pins.
7. "USB" jacks are very very popular, you could have
anywhere from none to 6 or more. They usually are tiny
square recessed jacks on the back of the computer's
motherboard. There are generally 4 types of USB jacks: A, B,
mini-A, and mini-B. Most computers and their peripherals use
type "A" USB connecters. A lot of dummies at printer
manufacturers however are using "B" type USB connecters then
they rip you off by charging you 30$ for a 3$ adapter cable.
Mini USB connectors are a miniaturized version of the USB
connector and are sometimes seen on laptop computers and
small peripherals that plug into PCs like cameras, PDAs,
etc. Some computers have USB jacks on the front of the case
under a little hidden door or inside of panels. Some new
computers come with 8 USB ports (and VGA, audio, & ethernet
ports of course), but no serial, no parallel, no PS2 or
keyboard type connectors, all your peripherals would have to
be USB, or you would have to buy pricey adapters. You can
buy cheap "PS2-to-USB" adapters to use PS2 mice with USB
jacks, some mice come with them. USB is by far the fastest
growing computer connector and is replacing all the others:
PS2, Parallel ports, Serial ports, Firewire. As of the time
of the writing of this tutorial (5 June, 2004), USB was the
preferred computer connector for peripherals, and I would
highly recommend buying USB peripherals. If you are
connecting to a network use ethernet, monitors use monitor
jacks, for audio you use audio jacks, everything else it
seems uses USB connectors (cameras, joysticks, printers,
mice, keyboards, external drives, etc) is the way to go
today. There is also a USB-1 and a USB-2 standard, USB-2
connectors are backwards compatible with USB1 connectors,
USB2 connectors are about 40 times faster though. Some
computers have a mixture of USB-1 and USB-2 jacks on the
back of them. Try to save your USB-2 jacks for your high
bandwidth items if you have them like cameras and external
drives that are USB-2 compliant. Also USB items are
"hot-swappable", which means that you can connect and disconnect
USB cables to the computer with the power ON, which is the
exact opposite of all the other connectors! The old style
keyboard connecters were extremely terrible about blowing up
keyboards if you plugged them in with the power on the
computer or even sometimes even simply wiggling the
connector could smoke them. Some USB devices can be powered
over the USB bus and don't need a separate power cable. Even
a USB-1 port is fast, it's faster than the old parallel
port, serial port, PS2 mouse, and keyboard ports combined.
8. "Audio" connectors are little round (usually color coded)
jacks for plugging your mic's input plug (usually red) to
your computer, and to plug the output to your front speaker
pair plug (usually green) and rear speaker pair plug
(sometimes blue sometimes black). The jacks are about the
diameter of a pencil. If the jacks are not color coded,
usually if you look on the back of the computer closely, you
will see engraved symbols for what type of jack it is (a
picture of a mic, or speaker, etc). If you have Dolby 5.1,
6.1 or 7.1 you will have other audio jacks for subwoofers
and other speakers (orange and other colors). The audio jack
color code is supposed to be standardized, but not all
companies follow it. There are some special "digital audio
connectors" for special purpose items too.
9. Telephone modem connectors (if you have one) are either
on your "modem" card or on the back of the motherboard, you
might have none or 1 or 2 connectors. It's just a regular
old telephone jack like in your house. It is used to connect
your computer to a phone line so it can connect the computer
to an ISP, use the computer as a FAX machine, connect to
dialup bulletin board, to remotely connect over phone lines
to private computer network, and to simply dial phone
numbers for you.
10. An Ethernet connector (if you have one) is either on
your Ethernet card or on the back of the motherboard, you
probably have none or 1 connector. Ethernet connectors are a
small connector that looks similar to a telephone jack, but
is physically larger and has 6 wires instead of 4. It is
used to connect computers to computer networks, routers, DSL
modems, Cable Modems, etc. A lot of computers are coming
with Ethernet connectors built in. Ethernet is the preferred
way to connect to a computer network, because it won't lag
you. There is Ethernet10, 100, 1000 standards, Ethernet 100
is the most common.
11. And of course the computer's power supply should have a
jack for the power cord plug to plug into.
12. Miscellaneous connectors. A long time ago there used to
be "serial mice" that plugged into serial ports, also mice
that used a "big round mouse connector" called "DIN-5" or
something, and a serial port with 25 pins. They stopped
making 25 pin serial ports, because people would improperly
connect 25 pin parallel items to 25 pin serial items and
blow them up (that's why the serial ports changed to 9
pins). USB connectors just solve so many of these problems
now a days.
IF YOUR CONNECTORS FOR YOUR JOYSTICK AND COMPUTER DON'T
MATCH:
If you have a joystick that has a different type of
connecter than your computer's, you have several options.
Sorry, all involve money.
A. If you have a old gameport joystick, but no gameport on
your newer computer (which is running WinXP with spare USB
ports), then your best bet is usually to simply buy a newer
joystick that has USB. I can highly recommend the Microsoft
Sidewinder Precision Pro 2 joystick (around 40-70$ US), it
works, the software works well with XP, the buttons are not
located "perfectly" (in my opinion), but it it works pretty
good over all with no lag.
You say, "But man, I LOVE my old joystick, the buttons are
EXACTLY where I want them, I must get it to work with my new
computer!" (note, I feel your pain brother! ;-). To do this
you would have to buy a new sound card that has a gameport
on it (a the lower priced sound cards of the "Sound Blaster"
family start at 30-60$) (off-brand sound cards are cheaper
10-40$, but you might have problems in compatibility and
sometimes sound quality). Also cheap sound cards don't
always have a main chip on them, but instead use the CPU of
the computer's motherboard to do it's work, which slows the
computer a little. You would have to have an empty card slot
of the correct type (PCI vs EISA for a desktop computer) to
install it. You would have to follow the instructions that
came with your new sound card to physically remove the old
card and properly and safely physically install the new card
and any drivers or application software. If you have
"on-board sound" on your motherboard, you would have to read
your motherboard's manual (or computer's manual) to find
which jumper(s) (if they supplied one) to jumper or
un-jumper to turn off on board sound. You might even have to
go into a special screen called the "BIOS" to turn something
on or off. If you are NOT familiar with computer hardware
you would be stuck taking it to a computer shop (usually
expensive) to have this done. So, if you have a newer
computer with Windows XP, and USB ports, your best bet is
simply to usually to just buy a new USB joystick and adapt
to the new button positions. I know, it sucks, but I have
had to do it before too, "I feel your pain" ;-). Also, see
the paragraph about "DirectX" -before- you buy anything.
NOTE:
There is another option for this problem, I would --NOT--
recommend it. You could buy a NEW Microsoft USB Joystick.
Install it on your computer and make sure it works ok, then
physically take the handle covers off the old joystick, and
rig the new joystick's switches and wires into the old
joystick's handle covers using: car body fiberglass,
tie-wraps, epoxy glue, radiator hose clamps, files, dremel
tool, drills, saws, a soldering iron, and whatever else it
takes to modify and junk-rig it. Then mount the old
joystick's handle covers (with the new joystick's switches
and wires) on to the new joystick's base, but more than
likely, if it ever works again, it will be very buggy and
not work near as well as a new stock Microsoft Joystick.
B. If you have a NEW USB joystick, but -NO- USB ports at all
on your computer you could buy a "USB port card" (30-50$)
they come in PCI and PC cards (for laptops) and the cards
have from 2 to 4 USB ports on them. You would have to have
an empty card slot of the correct type to install it, and it
would probably come with drivers. Make sure the card would
work with your version of Windows before you buy it.
C. If you have a NEW USB joystick, but no -SPARE- USB ports
on your computer, then you could buy a "USB hub" (they run
20-35$ US for a 4 port USB hub) that will give you extra USB
ports, and usually simply plug into an existing USB port on
the motherboard and usually comes with a little installation
CD. Its quick and cheap.
NOTE:
Another possible option for this problem, that I do --NOT--
recommend is some (but not all) motherboards have (hidden
internally on them) places to plug in a special aftermarket
USB expansion connector adapter. However, you would have to
open the computer's case to check and add them and opening a
case VOIDS most computer warranties (if you have the
computer's motherboard manual, you could simple check in the
manual)!! Also, there is another problem with finding the
correct type of special expansion adapter cable for your
specific motherboard model as the adapters differ and are
usually motherboard and manufacturer specific. If you use
the wrong special aftermarket USB expansion connector
adapter you could blow up everything. With all that said a
USB hub is usually the best bet for fixing this problem. So
I recommend going with the USB hub, it's quick and fairly
cheap.
Also, see the "MY JOYSTICK's DRIVER DIED on the LATEST
VERSION OF DirectX" in the Troubleshooting section of this
tutorial before you spend any money on trying to revive an
old joystick.
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TROUBLESHOOTING JOYSTICKS THAT WON'T WORK IN WINDOWS:
WARNING -- Turn off all power and unplug the computer from
power before you plug in or un-plug or start disassembling
anything. If something works a little bit and you take it a
part and can't get it back together, you just ruined it
unless it can be economically repaired by a service shop and
you can pay for it, so don't mess anything up! If you do
open up anything find -ALL- dropped screws (or loose metal
objects) immediately as they can electrically short out your
computer, put them in a little cup or something. If you make
any changes to settings, write down the original settings,
so if they don't work, you will know how to put the computer
back to it's starting condition.
NOTE:
USB device are called "hot-swappable", they have SPECIAL
electronic components inside that allow them to be connected
and disconnected to the computer with the computer's power
on, they are the EXCEPTION, as EVERYTHING else you should
always turn OFF and unplug the computer's power cord before
you plug other items into or unplug items from the computer,
or you might blow it up. If disassemble anything ALWAYS
disconnect it totally from power first (even USB items).
If you have an old gameport joystick (and even some USB
joysticks) they MUST BE CALIBRATED FIRST before they will
work properly!!
Types of symptoms of various joystick problems:
A. Totally dead
joystick, nothing works, new installation, never did work.
B. Totally dead
joystick, nothing works, but used to work previously.
C. Joystick
erratically works, or movement acts "noisy".
D. One button does
not work when pushed, everything else works ok.
E. Without moving the joystick's stick you are moving in a
direction or in circles.
F. DirectX.
G.
Your joystick works ok in the Window's Game Controller test,
but not in the game.
A). Totally dead
joystick, nothing works, new installation, never did work:
If you are getting frustrated and upset, my first rule of
troubleshooting simply stated is "Don't let inanimate
objects pi-- you off". ;-) So, if you are upset, go take a
soda or water or tea or coffee break or go for a walk, and
come back to it once you are cooled off. ;-) First make sure
that you are not doing something obviously wrong to cause it
not to work. Go back and start DOUBLE CHECKING EVERYTHING in
a slow methodical (detailed) way, write down notes if it is
overwhelming to you, write down what you have checked as you
do it step by step and if it made things better or worst.
Always do the "quick checks" first when troubleshooting!
Are you sure that the joystick is EVER going to work on your
computer with this operation system, are you sure that it's
drivers are compatible with that version of Windows, check
in the joystick's manual or web site? If you have more than
one joystick, gamepad, etc connected to the computer, make
sure you have the proper joystick "selected" in Windows
Control Panels "Game Controller" menu. Did you install the
correct driver for your version of Windows? Did you update
the driver 9if there is an update available)? Did you install the application software (if
there was any) -AFTER- (not before) you installed the driver
software? If it is an old gameport joystick, did you
calibrate it (even some USB joysticks need calibration done
to them)? Is the joystick's connectors properly connected
and properly seated (turn off your computer before
connecting or disconnecting or jiggling connectors) use a
flashlight to look closely and make sure. Did you re-boot
your computer at least 1 time after you installed
everything? Are you sure the gameport's (sound card /
motherboard) driver is properly installed and updated. Have
you updated Windows?
To determine if your joystick and it's software are properly
installing in Windows, go to Windows "Control Panel's" "Game
Controller" menu to see if your joystick is listed and
selected there. If it is listed, that usually means that it
is properly connected and installed in Windows, and should
past the little function "tests" you run there. You can do
these tests by clicking the Window's menu "Start" button,
"Settings", "Control" (control panel), "Game Controller",
"Properties".
(Click the picture to see a large detailed version of it.)
To determine if you have some type of hardware or software
"conflict" in Windows itself that might be affecting your
joystick installation, you can go to Window's "Device
Manager" menu to see if there are any little yellow question
marks "?" symbols next to any items. The little yellow
question marks means Windows is seeing some hardware, but
the hardware's driver is not properly installed or working
correctly for some reason. You might be having some type of
internal IRQ Windows Conflict with your hardware. You can do
this by clicking the Windows menu "Start" button,
"Settings", "Control", "System", then on the "System Menu"
click "Hardware", "Device Manager" and see if there are any
little yellow question marks "?" there. If you double click
on the yellow question mark it should show you the details
of that item. Do you see yellow question marks, but are
missing something else you know is installed besides the
joystick? Old gameport style joysticks should show up under
"Sound, video, and game controllers", USB joysticks should
show up under "Human Interface Devices".
Have you still not figured it out, then re-read the
joystick's manual start to finish, go to the manufacture's
website's "Support" or "Customer Service" section and look
for a "FAQ" (Frequently Asked Question") or "Service Tips"
section and look for tips on your problem. You might have to
try un-installing the joystick's software in the Window's
"Control Panel", "Add Remove Programs".
If you are pretty sure the joystick SHOULD work on your
computer and you have tried everything else, it is possible
that the joystick or the sound card/motherboard's hardware
is bad (but not probable though for new items, but it is
possible). To test your computer, if you have another
joystick (or access to a friends) try installing it on to
your computer on that jack. To test your joystick, try
installing and testing the joystick on another computer of
yours or one of your friends.
B). Totally dead
joystick, nothing works, but used to work previously:
It is possible that the joystick or the gameport jack on
your computer just "died", but not likely. Did someone use
your computer since the last time it worked and make changes
you don't know about, ask ALL the people in your house? Was
any new software installed (games maybe), and new hardware
(maybe you don't know about it, ask everyone)? Since your
joystick last worked, did you do a update to Windows (or did
it auto-update itself, or did someone else)? Did you update
your sound card or motherboard drivers? Also see the
paragraph below about "DirectX" updates. Are you sure that
the joystick's connector is plugged in all the way, double
check it before you waste too much time, use a flashlight to
look closely. Don't move your computer while it is on as
this is hard on the hard drive. You might have a bad
joystick or your sound card's or motherboard's gameport
might have died. If it is a USB joystick, try it in another
USB jack on your computer, preferably one you have tested
with another USB item and know that it works. To determine
if it is the joystick or the sound card-motherboard that is
bad, swap them out. To test your computer, if you have
another joystick (or access to a friends) try installing it
on to your computer on that jack. To test your joystick, try
installing and testing the joystick on another computer of
yours or one of your friends. See section "A" above
C). Joystick
works erratically, or movement acts "noisy":
If you have an old 2D analog gameport style joystick that
starts acting really "funky" or "jumpy" it might have "dirty
pots". Most old 2D analog gameport style joysticks
usually have 4 potentiometers inside of them .
"Potentiometers" are electronic components about the size of
a screw-on soda cap (also so called "pots" by Electronic
Technicians). These "pots" can "get dirty" (internally
oxidize) and can cause jumpy movement in games even thought
"It used to work ok". If your old joystick has not been used
in a long time, this can quite possibly happen. To fix this,
usually, simply "working" the joystick's stick back and
forth and left and right about 20-50 times will "clean" the
pots (it forces the pot's internal wipers over the internal
resistor pad.) If that doesn't fix it, you would have to
turn off the computer, disconnect the joystick from the
computer, disassemble the joystick (some screws might be
hidden under stickers and/or grip pads), and spray a little
bit of WD-40 into each pot by it's stem, then work the
stick, remove/wipe off excess WD-40, and re-assemble the
joystick,,, or ,,you could buy a new joystick.
You could also have a bad joystick cord or an intermittent
cord. Check the cord visually to see if it has been pinched
really bad. If the joysticks cord has been pinched or
crimped badly (like a chair's leg sat on it) it might be
that some of the cord's the internal wires broken or are
getting ready to break, thus the intermittent or erratic
behavior, look for bad pinched places, see the bottom of
this paragraph on how to test for intermittent problems. A
lot of times cords start to go bad where they enter or exit
cases. The electronics in your joystick or your sound card
or motherboard could be acting up or over heating, is it
Summer time there, is the room hot? You could also have
electrically dirty connectors on the cord's connector or the
jack of the computers gameport connector. Turn off the
computer, stick the joystick's cord's connector in a plastic
bag and spray it with a "light" blast of WD-40 (do not "soak
it). Shake/wipe off the excess WD-40 and plug the connecter
in the jack about 20 times. Don't get WD-40 all over the
place especially not on the floor as it is slippery as all.
While WD-40 is not conductive usually, it does attract dirt
and dust which is conductive, that is why you try to use it
only on the actual pins of the connectors. You could have a
bad solder joint or a bad intermittent electrical connection
on the cord or in the joystick. If you still can't find it,
test the joystick using the Windows Game Controller tests
(see the Testing and Calibrating Joystick section above)
test it by moving the stick and holding it in one axes (one
direction) at a time, while another person LIGHTLY taps the
case then LIGHTLY twists and shakes the cord, look for
changes, in the Windows Game Controller test's display for
the stick as they tap and twist on the joystick and it's
cord.
D). One button does
not work when pushed, everything else works ok:
If the switch seems to "push" and "feel" like the other
buttons, more than likely this is caused by a "dirty"
(electrically dirty) contact inside that button's switch.
Spray just a little bit of WD-40 into where the button is at
(it is best to take the joystick a part and to spray it
directly into the switch. Most joysticks use little plastic
"pushers" that intern press the internally hidden electrical
switches, you want to clean the switch not the pusher.
Sometimes a switch problem is caused by the mechanical
"pusher" sticking or binding on the sides against the
joystick's case. If you have this problem just give it a
little shot of WD-40 and wipe off the excess.
If the switch "feels funny" when you push it and there is no
"click" like the other switches, and you already made sure
it's not the "pusher" sticking, the switch is probably
broke. Try cleaning it first just incase though. You played
games until you wore out that switch "killing monsters" ;-).
The work around is to just not use that button in the game.
You could fix the bad switch by replacing it, -if- you have
access to a solder iron and solder, a screwdriver, and are
near by a Radio Shack Electronic Part's Store. You would
have to turn off and unplug the power to the computer,
disconnect the joystick from the computer, disassemble the
joystick (some screws might be hidden under stickers and
grip pads), take the switch out, take it to the store and
they might be able to match up or order a replacement
momentary push switch (or some substitute) that might work
for 3-4$. If you or a friend have an another old broke
joystick, you might be able to scavenge a button from it.
Don't spend 50$ buying tools and parts to fix a 40$ old used
joystick though, buy a new 40$ auto-calibrating digital USB
joystick.
E. Without moving the joystick's stick you are moving in a
direction or in circles:
There are 2 types of "centering problems" with joysticks.
One is a "joystick mechanically centering problem" the other
is a "joystick software centering problems". If your
joystick's stick just doesn't return to the center point of
it's movement automatically, it probably has a return-spring
problem, see the "Joystick Mechanical Centering Test" below.
If joystick seems to be physically centering ok, but without
pushing any buttons you start moving in a direction in a
game, you probably need to do a joystick calibration (see
the Calibrating and Testing Joystick section above) or you
need to increase the joystick's "deadzone" setting.
If you move in only one direction, that means you have one
axis messed up, if you are stuck going in circles in the
game you have 2 or more axes messed up. If the joystick
works ok right after a calibration, but then after you play
for 30 minutes or and hour you start to take off in a
direction with the joystick mechanically centered, what is
happening is the joystick's electronics' are heating up and
causing this to happen, the fix for this is to increase the
joystick's "deadzone" setting a little until it stops. You
may (or may not) have access to a way to increase the "deadzone"
setting of the joystick in Window's "Game
Controller"/"Properties" menu, if so adjust the deadzone
setting there you may need to increase the joystick's
deadzone setting in the game, or you may need to increase
the deadzone setting in both places.
The Microsoft Sidewinder Precision Pro2 Joystick's deadzone
setting is fixed in Windows (see the yellow square area),
but still can be adjusted in some games (like Half-life):
(Click the pictures to see a large
detailed versions of them.)
If the joystick hasn't been calibrated in a very long time
(like a year), its gotten really cold or really hot since
you last calibrated your joystick, you have swapped out
joysticks, simply try re-calibrating first before you go
messing with deadzone settings. However, if your joystick
needs calibration every week or every 2 hours or else you
develop the "moving in a direction without touching the
stick problem", it would then be best to try increasing your
"deadzone" settings, increase the setting a little bit at a
time then play the game for a while to see if the problem is
fixed and keep tweaking it up until it works.
If the joystick's stick seems to have a problem with it's
stick physically NOT returning to the mechanical center
position every time or not at all, you probably have a
spring related problem.
"Joystick Mechanical Centering Test":
To test if the joystick has a mechanical centering problem:
1. Jiggle the stick of the joystick and yet go of it, so it
physically re-centers itself like it is supposed to.
2. Set your joystick on a flat surface like a table top,
bracing your elbow on the table, hold a finger just above an
imaginary reference point over the very top of your
joystick's stick without touching the joystick with that
finger. Now don't move that finger.
3. Now with the 2nd hand, move the joystick's stick to the
extreme of one axis.
4. Now let go of the stick with the second hand.
5. The joystick's internal springs mechanisms should return
the joystick to it's mechanical center automatically.
6. Check that the stick returns to its center within about a
1/4 of an inch (6-7mm) or so of your reference.
7. Repeat this test for the other axis of your joystick (if
you have a 3D joystick test that the twist re-centers in
both direction too).
If the joystick is working properly it's stick should
physically re-center itself within ABOUT a 1/4 of an inch
(6-7mm) or so. Most joysticks will have 2-3 inches of total
travel in each direction from it's mechanical centering
position to the extreme of each axis (4-6 inches for full
travel over the complete front-back or left-right travel).
If the joystick is "floppy" that probably means an internal
spring has broken, worn out, come loose or broken loose. You
could turn off the computer, unplug the joystick, and
disassemble it, figure out how the centering spring
mechanism is supposed to work, figure out what broke and fix
it. Some joysticks use 4 metal springs, while others use 2
springs and special stops designed to re-center the stick,
some use rubber centering devices instead of metal springs.
You used to be able to get "rebuild kits" for some of old
expensive +100$ joysticks for like 15-20$ plus 7$ shipping
and when joysticks used to cost +100$ and were made of metal
this made sense, but for a 40$ digital self calibrating USB
joysticks it doesn't any longer, usually you just buy new
joystick for 40$ if it's not something simple to fix.
If you are low on cash and have a mechanical centering
problem on your joystick and can't afford to buy a new
joystick, a "work-a-round" for the centering problem is to
simply increase the deadzone settings and simply get used to
holding the joystick centered to stop moving in games. I
have heard of others putting 4 screws on the outside of the
joystick case and using rubber bands wrapped around the
stick to re-center it.
F). Your joystick's
driver died with the latest version of DirectX:
(or when you re-installed or updated Windows)
Well first up if you have a VERY old gameport joystick it
may or may not work with new Windows UPDATES, even if you
install a new sound card with a game port on it, because of
something called "DirectX" software that is part of Windows,
even if it is a USB joystick, as updates come out for
DirectXs for Windows, your joystick might simply STOP
working. DirectX is basicly a part of Windows software that
the software of your joystick, sound card, video card, etc
and the game's software talks to. DirectX 9 is currently out
(as of the writing of this tutorial 1 June, 2004), some
joystick manufactures just do not update their drivers to be
compatibly with the latest version of Window's DirectX as it
is updated arrives, I know it sucks. I can no longer use my
"Thrustmaster Topgun USB" joystick because of this problem.
The strange part of it was, my joystick was working great, I
lost my computer hard drive (because of bumping the
computer's case too hard while playing games with my
joystick next to it ;-), and when I re-installed Windows and
updated, my joystick would not re-install. This was a really
freaky problem, actually I found that if I installed the
joystick drivers right after I installed Windows, but before
I updated Windows (which updated DirectX (along with other
stuff)) the joystick would work "sort of". The bottom line,
is I went out and bought a new Microsoft Joystick, and it
simply works, no lag. I know that there are people that say
Microsoft is the devil, but hey, at least their joysticks
work. ;-)
It is possible, but NOT likely that a joystick's problem is
caused by mis-set DirectX "Input" settings (any type of
joystick you have and any other USB items should show up
there), but not likely. Window's Computers have a built in
little "DirectX Diagnostics Test" to look at (and tweak if
needed) video, sound, joystick, etc settings. If you do run
the DirectX Diagnostic Test on your computer, be very
careful, because DirectX effects MANY other things on your
computer. Record the original settings BEFORE you tweak
anything, if you do!!
The path to the "DirectX Diagnostic Test" that is on
YOUR
COMPUTER is:
For Windows XP:
C:\WINDOWS\system32\dxdiag.exe
For Windows 98:
C:\WINDOWS\system\dxdiag.exe
(If you click your Windows "START", then click "Run",
then type in the above line, then hit your keyboard's ENTER, the
"DirectX Diagnostics Test" will start on YOUR COMPUTER.)
G).
Your joystick works ok in the Window's Game Controller test,
but not in the game.
If all the tests of the Window's "Game Controller's" test
works ok (see the instructions on how to do this in "A"
above), but still the joystick doesn't work in your game,
more than likely it is caused by a mis-setting or
in-compatibility with your game. Make sure your game
actually will work with a joystick and if possible will work
with your specific joystick. Generally, if a game works with
one joystick, it should work with all of them. Check your
game's documentation and joystick's documentation to see if
they are compatible or if there are "bugs" in the game or
with the joystick's driver associated with this. Read the
printed manual or manual in electronic form on the game CD,
also look in the directory that the game is installed in for
a "readme.txt" file, also visit the "Support" and or "FAQ"
sections of your game and your joystick's manufacturer. If
you are having trouble getting your joystick to work with
the game of Half-life or one of it's Modifications ("Mods")
(Counterstrike, Day of Defeat, TFC, Condition Zero, etc
etc), go visit our
"How
to use Joysticks in Half-life" Tutorial. A lot of
games have "Keyboard" or "Assign Keys" or "Advanced" menus
where you can turn on the game's ability to recognize a
joystick. Once you turn on the games ability to see the
joystick (if it doesn't do it by default) you should be able
to assign keys. A lot of games use the very popular
Half-life-Steam, Quake, and Unreal game engines all 3 of
these can be used with joysticks. Most Microsoft 3D shooter
games recognize joysticks. Low end game engines are cheap on
the programming side, one of the places these lower class
game engines cut corners is not provide the programming in
the game to enable them to use joysticks, but then again
usually the game is buggy any never gets fixed 100% either.
Another good tip on how to fix problems is to go to message
board Forums (for games and computer hardware) and do a
"Search" on "joysticks" and "the name of your game". Your
could also post a detailed post in the
AtomicWARRIOR Forum saying what joystick you have,
what version of Windows you have and what game you are
having trouble with, check back every few days to see the
answers. The bottom line is there are many games that can be
used with joysticks and a lot others that can't be used you
will have to read to find out and by simply "testing" you
might figure out a way to make them work. While we do NOT
have time to answer joystick questions by email, if you have
or have heard of a good tip on joysticks not listed here,
please post a message on at the
AtomicWARRIOR Forum
about it in detail and we will add it to this page.
Good luck and happy gaming to all!
;-)
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JOYSTICK AND GAME CONTROLLER LINKS:
Microsoft
Logitech
Thrustmaster
Saitek (adjustable joystick)
Gravis
CH
Products (high end flight simulator setups)
Belkin (speedpad)
Airstick for Macs
Essential Reality (glove)
Linux Joystick Driver
Joy-stick.net (mega links)
Comp-USA
(vender)
BEST-Buy
(vender)
Wal-mart
(vender)
AtomicWARRIOR Joysticks
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Joysticks/ Joysticks and Windows/
